There was a discussion on the boards about this and I would say MAJORITY of people wore the "hood gear store" variants aka fakes of urban apparel which is one of the reasons the market bottomed out while it was still in fashion.
If we a do a poll on this board right now I bet you all my coli cash most posters who were around back then were wearing cheaper knockoffs of the real thing. My point still stands. A lack of value for Black product exists and this only further illustrates the point.
When it comes to Euro fashion or cac brands in general we clown and ridicule people that wear knock offs but most nikkaz had no problem bootlegging their own out of existence... fubu, rocawear, phat farm, sean john were all heavily bootlegged. Your average consumer back then was buying their gear from a hood fashion store and most of them did not sell authentic merchandise from the brand itself or have any accounts with the brand.