Car audio question

[Thatrogueassdiaz]

Ok, now I can see what you're doing

You're going about this the wrong way.

For example, replacing 20 dollar speakers with 30 dollar speakers will net you nothing in return.

You're just wasting money replacing entry level product with entry level product.

Speakers are the most important upgrade. Why? Well, they're gonna be playing 99% of the frequency range.

Bass? That's easy. Since you have a trunk, 2 12's or 2 15's infinite baffle behind the rear seat would be the best option for easy bass without spending a ton.

These set ups get loud, low, sound great, and need minimal amount of power.

You can peep this link to look at an infinite baffle install in an accord
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum.../147692-first-go-infinite-baffle-install.html

Measure both width and height behind the rear seat and see what the largest subs you can fit

Allocate most of your money into a good pair of component speakers upfront. And fukk that prefab kicker bullshyt. Rears? Keep the old ones there..they're truly useless.

Keep your Power T400-4 amp. It does 200 x 2 bridged which would be excellent for a pair of components.

This car audio shyt is pretty easy as long as you follow certain guidelines

:jagslol: Dawg, my rears are almost the anchor to my system. Since my voice coil has gone out I can tell a huge difference. My speakers aren't entry level speakers :jagslol:

@Thatrogueassdiaz, that's looking good. The only problem I see that you have is with your subs and amp. The box that you have said that when you hook it up to an amp it's going to show the amp a 2-ohm load. Now the amp that you showed that you will be running said that it puts out 1,200 watts at a 1-ohm load. Now you can hook those subs up to the amp but you will not get the full power of the amp. You will probably be getting about 650-700 watts, which isn't bad but you want to get the full potential out of the amp.

You asked about how can a monoblock amp run more than one speaker. Well I have seen a monoblock amp run 8 subs at one time. They are designed to run subs. Now I'm not saying that you hook up 8 subs to your amp but you can easily do 2 subs. Now if you want to get the most out of your amp you can buy the speakers separately and get the box and have your installer wire the box up to show the amp a 1-ohm load. You will need to either buy two 4-ohm DVC subs or buy 2 SVC 2-ohm subs. Make sure that your installer wires them parallel. Then when he hooks them up to the amp, it will show the amp a 1-ohm load and your amp will perform at it's maximum potential. But overall you're set up sound good and it's almost the set up I have in my car.

Ok, you know what you're talking about.

I would prefer to find a 2-Ohm monoblock as powerful as that monoblock I linked. There's no prob having the amp only push 700, IF it can push that to EACH sub. The sub RMS combined is 1200, so that equals 600 each. Can u help find me the appropriate amp for those subs?

 

[edzyy]

Why would you want your rears to be the anchor to your system? You sit up front or in the back seats?

I won't front, i read the model # wrong for what was up front. It lead me to some other pioneer coax.

What I recommended still stands: fukk the rears, work with what you have upfront.

I assume that is the TS-D1720C component set, correct?

Bridge your current T400-4 to power that set. 200 x 2 should bring those to life. No, you won't blow them.

How do your current subs look? You can probably recycle those.

 

[ThumpDaddy]

Ok, you know what you're talking about.

I would prefer to find a 2-Ohm monoblock as powerful as that monoblock I linked. There's no prob having the amp only push 700, IF it can push that to EACH sub. The sub RMS combined is 1200, so that equals 600 each. Can u help find me the appropriate amp for those subs?

Well, If you're looking for a amp that would push the most in a 2-ohm load, you can do a 2-channel amp and have it bridged. But usually the monoblock amps are more efficient. I can help you look but I would have to do it when I get home from work.

 

[Thatrogueassdiaz]

Well, If you're looking for a amp that would push the most in a 2-ohm load, you can do a 2-channel amp and have it bridged. But usually the monoblock amps are more efficient. I can help you look but I would have to do it when I get home from work.

okay. Id appreciate the help most certainly :biden: Rep is coming for you tonight

 

[Thatrogueassdiaz]

Why would you want your rears to be the anchor to your system? You sit up front or in the back seats?

I won't front, i read the model # wrong for what was up front. It lead me to some other pioneer coax.

What I recommended still stands: fukk the rears, work with what you have upfront.

I assume that is the TS-D1720C component set, correct?

Bridge your current T400-4 to power that set. 200 x 2 should bring those to life. No, you won't blow them.

How do your current subs look? You can probably recycle those.

Yes, those are the components. If I bridged the T-400, I wouldn't have anything powering my rears.

 

[edzyy]

You can run the rears off HU power.

They're not nearly as important as what's upfront.

To be fair, If you have a system with a good front stage and decent dynamics, you'll never miss rear speakers at all.

Forgot to add that I wouldn't really want a 1200 watt amp and another 400 watt amp on a stock electrical system. Problems will arise, and electrical upgrades are not cheap. 1 good battery is gonna set you back at least 200 bucks.

You can have a loud set up under 1000 watts if you do things efficiently

 

[Thatrogueassdiaz]

Well, If you're looking for a amp that would push the most in a 2-ohm load, you can do a 2-channel amp and have it bridged. But usually the monoblock amps are more efficient. I can help you look but I would have to do it when I get home from work.

Check this out http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX12K1/Kicker-12CX1200-1.html?tp=35834

That should do the trick.

You can run the rears off HU power.

They're not nearly as important as what's upfront.

To be fair, If you have a system with a good front stage and decent dynamics, you'll never miss rear speakers at all.

Forgot to add that I wouldn't really want a 1200 watt amp and another 400 watt amp on a stock electrical system. Problems will arise, and electrical upgrades are not cheap. 1 good battery is gonna set you back at least 200 bucks.

You can have a loud set up under 1000 watts if you do things efficiently

I have a yellow top optima battery in my car, breh. It cost me like 200 bucks.

 

[edzyy]

The 1998 maxima comes with a 100 amp alternator. A battery is a storage tank for energy. It can only store energy it's fed from the alternator. If you're not putting enough energy into the tank it wont matter how good the tank is. An empty tank is empty...

Have you done the big 3 yet? Or sound deaden?

 

[ThumpDaddy]

Check this out http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX12K1/Kicker-12CX1200-1.html?tp=35834

That should do the trick.



I have a yellow top optima battery in my car, breh. It cost me like 200 bucks.

Oh yeah man. That Kicker would be the perfect amp for you bruh. It's going to make a world of difference to you. I plan on redoing my system and I want to add a Optima battery. I was going to go talk to my car stereo guy this weekend to ask him which one would be best for me.

 

[edzyy]

Although a bit larger, the Precision Power BK1800.1D is a lil more bang for buck if you truly need 1000+ @ 2 ohms

 

[Thatrogueassdiaz]

Oh yeah man. That Kicker would be the perfect amp for you bruh. It's going to make a world of difference to you. I plan on redoing my system and I want to add a Optima battery. I was going to go talk to my car stereo guy this weekend to ask him which one would be best for me.

Hey, I found something cheaper. What do you think of this?

 

[ThumpDaddy]

Hey, I found something cheaper. What do you think of this?

Man, I wouldn't mess with anything with Boss on it personally. If I was you I would stick with the Kicker amp. I haven't seen anyone that had a good experience with Boss anything.

 

[Thatrogueassdiaz]

Man, I wouldn't mess with anything with Boss on it personally. If I was you I would stick with the Kicker amp. I haven't seen anyone that had a good experience with Boss anything.

Ok thanks. I changed my mind anyway. I'm going with the kicker, even if it is more expensive. You have a equalizer in your system?

 

[ThumpDaddy]

Ok thanks. I changed my mind anyway. I'm going with the kicker, even if it is more expensive. You have a equalizer in your system?

Just in the headunit. I have this exact model in my car now. I got it last year and it's still running strong.

 

[Thatrogueassdiaz]

Just in the headunit. I have this exact model in my car now. I got it last year and it's still running strong.

Im going to cop this eq:
Allows me to control my whole system the way I want to.