I was watching the parades during Carnival earlier this year and one of the presentations touched on this subject:
There is an Eshu underneath the ship: a settlement for the Orisha is located underwater in the All Saints' Bay
A floating book fair — which became involved in controversy after defining Salvador as a city of 'spirits and demons’ — is anchored over the religious site
By Alexandre Lyrio
Posted on November 03, 2019 at 06:06:00
Updated on April 20, 2023 at 11:24:04 AM
Credit: Andre Motta de Lima and Leandro Duran
When the Logos Hope ship left Europe in early October, the crew could not imagine what was waiting for them in the waters of the All Saints' Bay. First of all, very close to where the ship docked, at a depth of about five meters, in the Port of Salvador, lies what religions of African origin call a settlement of Eshu. What even the commander of the floating book fair might not know is that Eshu may not be a saint, but he's still nothing like a demon either.
Standing on a sunken rock in an area that separates Codeba — the Bahia state port authority — from the Ferry Boat, the settlement of Eshu was discovered in an archaeological operation that became the object of study of the Ialorixá, master in ethnic and African studies, doctor in Archeology and underwater archaeologist Luciana de Castro. Author of the book
O Exu submerso: uma arqueologia da religião e da diáspora no Brasil, she confirms that the settlement was placed there as a guardian of the Bay, protector of seafarers and merchants of São Joaquim.
For Luciana and for many other priests and members of Candomblé, it was no coincidence that the text posted on the social networks of the Christian organization Operation Mobilisation, responsible for the ship, had such negative repercussions for Logos Hope. Two days before crossing the main maritime access to the land of ashe and docking at the Port of Salvador on October 25, OM Ships made a publication on Facebook in which it stated that the vessel would be heading to a city “known for its people's belief in spirits and demons”. From the first responses on the Internet, the matter ended up in the press and reached the Prosecutor's Office of Bahia, which instituted a procedure to investigate what would be an act of racism and religious intolerance. What an online commenter wrote in response to the publication already suggested that the Orisha would respond. “May Eshu receive you with all his wisdom. And protect us from the Satan you carry inside your hearts”, she wrote.
She might not even know about the existence of the settlement, but, like a good Baiana, she seemed to be aware that this Orisha is the guardian of those waters. Incidentally, according to Luciana, the fact that the message reverberated in the press and stirred up the revolt of the people of Bahia was not just the work of the messenger and master of communication Orisha. The “inhabitant” of the settlement certainly had the illustrious contribution of the queen of the waters and the other members of the pantheon of Orisha in the response to the attack made by the ship.
Luciana teaches us that “Eshu is the son of Yemoja. Water is a great conductor of energy and messages. Therefore word got around. Shango also filed a lawsuit through the Prosecutor's Office. No Orisha is alone”. She believes that “the Bay belongs to All Saints, but it is much more about ‘ashe’ than ‘amen’”. According to her, while crossing the Atlantic, the ship was already suffering the influence of Eshu. She bets that “there is an interconnection between Eshu and Africa. From here until there, everything is Eshu”.
Discovery
Probably installed in the 1970s, that is, after the construction of the Ferry Boat terminal, the underwater Eshu was discovered in an environmental licensing work carried out by the professional seafarer and photographer André Lima, the underwater archaeologist Leandro Duran and the seaman Mario Mukeka.
In 2010, the three were hired to prepare an archaeological report for a project to be carried out by the Port of Salvador. In this operation, Leandro and André came across Eshu. “It was on top of a riprap [a set of stone blocks or other material placed in the water to serve as ballast] similar to this one”, said André Lima, pointing to one of those large rocks used to form a breakwater. “We didn't touch him, did we? We left it as it was there. Because that was the idea, right?”, tells André.
Leandro and André still have doubts about who photographed Eshu, which is why they share the authorship of the image. “At first glance it was quite clear that it wasn't anything simply thrown underwater, but religious equipment that was placed there at the bottom. I also thought that there was some kind of maintenance, because it was taken care of, there was no algae or fouling. It was clean”. The recorded image, very clear, ended up at the Department of Archeology at the Federal University of Sergipe, where Luciana was doing a study and saw the photo by “chance”.
The submerged Eshu would change the life of the archaeologist, a religious daughter of Eshu, who from then on would become a diver and carry out an unprecedented study that mixes archeology and religion. “I'm a daughter of Eshu, and I've never seen anything like it. I had never seen an Eshu in the water before”, said Luciana, wearing a string of red and black beads.
Recommendation
In the report, underwater archaeologist Leandro Duran recommended that the National Institute of Historic and Artistic Heritage (Iphan) consult the Candomblé community to find out the best “management of the artifact”.
“Considering that the proposal was to reclaim the area, the perspective was the possibility of relocating the totem to another suitable underwater space”, said Leandro.
In her book, Luciana suggests that the Eshu settlement may have been reclaimed or sucked into the construction site. “Obviously an Orisha settlement would not be respected, right? Archeology does not define this as an archaeological artifact. Either we reform our idea of heritage, or we will privilege this white and Eurocentric model”.
When contacted, the Port of Salvador reported that it never received a notification from Iphan about the existence of Eshu. Iphan, on the other hand, requested more time to investigate the fact, which would take place on Monday (4). Meanwhile, visitors to the bookstore ship questioned by CORREIO were divided on the subject. “They weren't talking about anyone's religion, but evil spirits. No one talked about religion”, said Baptist missionary José Barbosa.
“I'm an Evangelical, but I don't think it's right for them to talk about other people's religions”, said cashier Jaqueline Oliveira. The fact is the majority had no idea of what an Orisha settlement is. “My grandmother was an Ialorixá”, said credit consultant Alessandra Pimentel, one of the few to have an idea of what a settled Orisha represents.
In a statement published on social networks, the group responsible for the ship apologized and said that the publication was made in Germany, on October 22, but that the text, deleted after the criticism, does not portray the vision of the members of the Logos Hope ship. “What Eshu makes come out of a person's mouth, no one can make them go back on it. What was said was said and it shows who's who”, said Gersonice Brandão, known as Mãe Sinha de Xangô, from Terreiro Casa Branca.
CORREIO sought the ship's coordination and communication advisory services in Brazil, but they preferred not to comment. “I don't know who these people are or why they did this. All religions must be respected”, commented Mãe Cici de Oxalá, from Terreiro Aganju and the Pierre Verger Foundation.
Considered one of the most respected intellectuals in the country, sociologist and writer Muniz Sodré said that the origin of attacks like this one lies precisely in ignorance regarding religions of African origin. “This type of comment is proof of the backwardness. I don't know of any devil worship here in Bahia. I found this offensive, extraordinarily stupid, and I regret that anyone went to visit (the ship). It is ignorance that allows this type of comment”, said Sodré.
Power
Even with the likely reclamation or suction of the settlement, archaeologist Luciana de Castro believes that Eshu does not lose any of its power. “His power is intangible. Exu in his origin is invisible. His power consists in invisibility. It would not change his function. So he continues to protect the All Saints' Bay”, said Luciana, who considers reclaiming the area where Eshu was settled a crime.
But there is hope. Seafarer Mário Mukeka, who participated in that first operation, believes that the reclamation was never carried out. The Eshu, according to Mukeka, would be untouched, in the same place. “From what I saw the other times I passed by, that area was not reclaimed. I think Eshu is still visible”, said Mukeka, willing to carry out a new operation to find him.
Like a good seafarer, Mukeka is full of stories. For this reason, he immediately snitched on archaeologist Leandro Duran, who, impressed by the find, would have tried to please Eshu. “He took candy and guarana to offer to Exu. We didn't let him go down, right? It's better not to bring a present at all than to give the wrong one”, said Mukeka, aware that Eshu is not Cosmas and Damian and what he really likes is farofa made from palm oil, cachaça and cigars.
Collective ebó will protest against intolerance
A group defending religions of African origin will hold a collective ebó tomorrow, at the França Bus Terminal, in front of the Port of Salvador. An ebó is an offering to the Orishas. The act is to repudiate the declaration of the organization responsible for the Logos Hope ship, considered the largest floating bookstore in the world, which docked in Salvador on October 25th. Earlier, the organization asked for prayers and said that Salvador is known for its people's belief “in spirits and demons”.
Named as “the devil was brought by you! Bahia belongs to all Saints, charms and Orishas!”, the protest is scheduled to take place from 10am to 7pm.
The text posted on Facebook by the international organization responsible for the vessel said “pray for a safe boarding and for a two-day sailing direct to Salvador. Pray for protection, strength and wisdom for the crew during the ship's stay in Salvador — a city known for its people's belief in spirits and demons. Pray for the events team as they prepare for a new port and may God be glorified throughout each of the events to come”. The message was then deleted after the backlash.
The collective ebó will be organized by the Makota Valdina National Front. As the front announces, what motivates them is the “determination to fight for the life and dignity of black people and religions of African origin in Brazil”. An ogan at the Ilê Axé Torrun Gunan terreiro and member of the Makota Valdina Front, Eduardo Machado believes that Eshu interfered so that there was a response to the aggression.
“He would never let this injustice go unnoticed. His interference is total. We are going to carry out this political act to confront this intolerance”, he said. “This ship was supposed to bring knowledge. But it violates us with racial prejudice. What we have to face on a daily basis is enough”.
The ogan teaches that religions of African origin are far from worshiping the devil. He warns that “we worship ancestral energy, forces of nature, not demons. Every terreiro has a protective Eshu. So does the All Saints' Bay”.
There is an Eshu underneath the ship: a settlement for the Orisha is located underwater in the All Saints' Bay