The taste of Tobago in just one dish
4th July 2022
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The birdsong was the loudest that I'd ever heard, backed by the rolling crash of the ocean. Hummingbirds whirred. Trees were weighed down with ripe mangoes, tangled creepers and leaves the size of frisbees. I was searching for crabs with local chef Sherwin Clark in the stretch of Tobago's emerald coastal forest that backs Englishman's Bay, whose apricot sands are patterned not by footprints but by the swish of iguana tails.
Catching the crabs was the first step in making crab and dumpling, Tobago's signature dish.
Locals are rightly proud of this salty, spicy, coconut-milk-infused curry that's made with sweet local manicou crabs and served with cornmeal-and-flour dumplings. That's partly because Tobago, the smaller, north-easterly island of the Republic of Trinidad & Tobago, is often overshadowed by its larger sibling. Most local food specialties, such as shark and bake,
doubles and callaloo, originate in Trinidad and are eaten across both islands, but crab and dumpling is quintessential Tobago.
"Trinis come over here to eat it. It's a Tobago thing," Clark told me.
Crab and dumpling, Tobago's signature dish, is sweet, salty, spicy – and messy to eat
The other reason is that the dish is intimately connected with the Tobagonian landscape. Tobago is a land of plenty, with astonishing biodiversity including more than 260 species of birds. It's also home to the
world's oldest protected rainforest, which is where these unique freshwater land crabs live, scuttling along the forest floor and in mountain streams rather than the marine environment usually associated with crabs. While sea crabs are also abundant in Tobago, the sweeter land crab meat is preferred for the dish.
"Crab and dumpling is the epitome of Tobago's food landscape. It is an 'ah we' dish, meaning that it comes from us, it is part of us," said Renee J Robley, who blogs on Caribbean cuisine at
Thisbagogirl.
Nowadays associated with beach life and good times, crab and dumpling has roots in a shameful history. Like other British West Indian colonies, 18th-Century Tobago was exploited by the British as a base for sugar plantations, maintained through the labour of enslaved Africans and, later, indentured Indians.
Lizzie Collingham, culinary historian and author of
The Hungry Empire, describes the conditions that African slaves endured here as "brutal", adding that they were given cornmeal and substandard saltfish to eat, and thus looked for other means of nutrition.
"It's likely the African slaves were familiar with catching crabs, as they would have probably caught them in the mangrove swamps of West Africa," she said. The enslaved African also introduced dumplings to the Caribbean, called "journey cake" or "Johnny cake", which they could transport easily and cook on hot stones.
The manicou crabs used in the dish are caught in Tobago's forest, which is the world's oldest protected rainforest
Following the abolition of slavery in the 19th Century, the British were faced with a problem: where to find workers for their plantations. This coincided with the Industrial Revolution, which caused cheap, machine-made English cotton to flood the Indian market and put thousands of Indian textile workers out of work. The British seized the opportunity, and over the next few decades transported more than 140,000 Indians to Trinidad & Tobago as indentured labourers. Workers signed contracts – that they were often unable to read – for five years servitude on minimal pay.
"The labourers wouldn't have been able to bring anything with them," Collingham said. "But the British would have been aware that they would have to provide spices for the Indian labourers. The British imported their own curry powder and gave it as a ration."
Over time, these Indian and African traditions and flavours merged to form the beloved dish, which is now sold from clapboard beach kiosks across the island, painted in lime-green, papaya-orange and mango-yellow, the colours of the Caribbean.
Among these, on Store Bay Beach close to Pigeon Point, is
Miss Trim's, Tobago's best-known crab and dumpling stand. Meisha Trim is the second-generation Miss Trim to run the place; her mother started selling her homecooked food on a street stall, graduating to the beach hut around 30 years ago. When I visited, Trim proudly told me how the Tobagonian mix of cultures created the dish.
"It's a fusion of the best of us, of our African and our Indian heritage, so we have the spices from India and the coconut milk, fused together with the local seafood
Miss Trim's has been serving up homemade local dishes from Store Bay for decades
Sherwin Clark's restaurant, Marguerite's, is one of the best places to eat crab and dumpling in Tobago