The Worst Part About My Travels As A Solo, Black Woman
April 20, 2016Gloria Atanmo73 Comments 10337 views
Estimated Reading Time: 7 minutes
Paris, France // July 2015
While I’m the first to
encourage my fellow African-Americans to spread them transatlantic wings to hop across the pond and join me in Europe, there’s a part that I’m always hesitant to open up about when it comes to the reality of our existence in some parts of the world.
And while I can’t speak for every black woman, nor every country’s views, I
can share my experiences, my observations, and my discoveries, in hopes that it can prepare and even educate fellow black women as to something that is far too common, and yet, beyond our control.
Sorry to build the suspense, but I have to contextualize this, because again, I was so oblivious to it at first, that when it happened, I was so shocked, disgusted, and confused. And a bit saddened as well.
Toledo, Spain // June 2015
Because when you’re so used to doing everything to control the perception others have of you, and then having that “power” taken away from you for the simple fact that you’re in a city or region where people that have your skin color, are usually
prostitutes, it’s a hard pill to swallow.
Yes, that’s right.
I was mistaken for a prostitute.
Not just once. But dozens of times. And I’ve honestly lost count.
The first time it happened, I was in Spain.
The second time, The Czech Republic.
The third time, Albania.
And before the cynics begin to question what I was wearing, it didn’t matter. I was clothed, covered, and respectable.
Whether that be in a long, flowing skirt or in jeans and a peacoat, there are just some regions of the world who see black skin on a woman, and assume that the only way I was able to afford to get there
and stay there, was by way of selling my body to a local.
This way of thinking isn’t born overnight. It’s taught and it’s ingrained into people’s minds by what’s happened in the past.
A post shared by Gloria Atanmo, The Blog Abroad (@glographics) on Dec 4, 2018 at 4:58am PST
In Barcelona, for example, I quickly learned that there were certain streets I just couldn’t walk down at a certain hour, even as “early” as 8PM.
One time I was with my German friend leaving a restaurant, and he was walking me back to the train station on the famous
La Rambla street, and one by one we’re met with these strange looks that I can’t quite describe. It was a mix between a look of congratulations to my friend and a look of dirtiness to me.
We passed police officers who muttered something along the lines of “good job” in Catalan, while looking towards my German friend, and seemingly scaling me up and down as if imagining what Nicki Minaj moves I had in my repertoire *eye roll*.
My friend and I looked at each other, mutually sensing the discomfort of the situation, but still in the dark about why we were attracting such strange expressions.
I started becoming self-conscious but more observant of everyone around us, wondering why we were getting so much attention.
And then I locked eyes with what looked like a West-African (specifically, Nigerian) woman. I only specify she was Nigerian, because I can spot my own (both parents were born and raised there), and this will make sense later.
She stared me up and down, then looked at my German friend, eyeballed his crotch area, then looked at me again and muttered something to her friend nearby.
It’s now clear they were prostitutes, and they had mistaken me as their “competition” and crossing into their territory.
We made our way off the main strip of La Rambla, and off to the smaller sidewalk, because it just became too uncomfortable.
And then we noticed a trend.
Every 100 feet or so, there was a new African woman.
Claiming her spot/corner.
And giving me the same “jealous” glare as if they were mad I had found a “customer” for the night, while they were still out there harassing men that passed them by.
The worst part was, they
did look like me. And I looked like them.
You see, most African prostitutes wear coats, scarves, sweaters, and jeans. Just like me. Therefore, making us almost indistinguishable.
I was an empty corner away from looking like one of them, and the embarrassment was enough to keep me away from that street past dark for the remainder of my time in Barcelona.
I tried hard to forget about that night, and my friend and I only talked about it once over coffee, before agreeing to pretend it never happened. It was awkward. To have a friend walk down a street for 15 minutes under the assumption that you, his good friend, was purchased for the night.
I don’t walk around flashing my college degree, credentials, or achievements on my arms, but the fact that I couldn’t and didn’t really know how to defend myself, was something new. I was embarrassed. A type of embarrassed that leaves you speechless and unsure how to vent or open up about it with friends.
A post shared by Gloria Atanmo, The Blog Abroad (@glographics) on Nov 29, 2018 at 7:05am PST
Another time while I was out and about exploring the city, I arrived at a small intersection where I saw a car coming.
When I’m in no hurry, I’m always very lax about letting cars just go in front of me, and depending on where you are, most of them do anyway.
But I saw him slowing down, and encouraged him to press the gas again, and do a motion with my hand that waves him through to carry onwards.
But he instead brakes even harder so that his passenger window is right in front of me, winds down his window, and excitedly asks me in Spanish how much I charge, soon motioning that he didn’t even care, to just hop in the car anyway, reaching over to open the door.
The shock hit me so hard again, I felt like someone just punched my gut. I *accidentally* kicked his car and walked around him and crossed the street.
My Spanish/Catalan was so bad at that time, that I hadn’t taught myself how to be angry in a foreign language yet. And God knows that was probably for the best. Jesus took
that wheel.
And as much as I try to forget it happened. It soon happened again in Seville, Spain. And then in Prague, Czech Republic, and then in Gjirokastra, Albania. And several other cities, towns, and villages around Europe.
And being here now in Cyprus, I was reminded yet again, that this is just a part of my solo travel experience that I have to accept. Because it happened yet again.
Lisbon, Portugal
The other day I met a lovely lady from The Philippines who was the pastor of a church here who told me about their worship service happening in a few minutes.
She wanted to prepare a few things and had her husband walk me to where the church was located.
Sidenote: After traveling for so long, you start to develop a spirit of discernment, and I knew from the sound of their voices and the joy in their heart from finding a “sister in Christ” that I was in good hands.
So her husband and I start walking down the main street and heading for the church.
He was probably in his early 60’s, and since the wife was off picking up some things, there we were. An older man, with a 20-something old black woman, and immediately, the heads started turning.
On this narrow street lined with bars and restaurants of hundreds of people sitting outside facing towards the street, we soon become the center of attention. And by the looks of their faces, it was
not for anything good.
There is
nothing more embarrassing than the thought of someone thinking you were just “purchased”.
I knew what everyone thought, and my jolly new friend, oblivious to it all, was telling me about his journey of being a born again Christian, and how much God has worked miracles in his life.
And there I was, instead of rejoicing with him in his victories, allowing my human side to take over, and I put my head down, trying to avoid all the stares and mutters we were receiving.
It was different than the stares I got when I was by myself exploring Cyprus. People smiled and waved, and even chimed in a few times with,
Welcome to Cyprus! It was beautiful.
But it was about 8PM this time. And all I saw were judgmental faces.
Thanks for listening.