Kanye stans are so upset in his mentions
The music industry and the sneaker business have been entwined for decades. We only need to recall Run-DMC and what they did for Adidas, or The Ramones wearing Chuck Taylors to understand the importance of this relationship. Brands have “seeded” the celebrity market for years to get exposure for their products.
In recent years, sneaker brands have begun doing footwear collaborations with musicians, artists and celebrities. Many of these collaborations are highly coveted by collectors and fans. The goal of this blog is to explore the reasoning and value behind these collaborations.
For the most part, the main goal for collaborations is hype. The hype works both ways. The celebrity and the brand both hope to gain prestige. The celebrity is typically not compensated (beyond free shoes for friends and family). The celebrity gets bragging rights for having a shoe with their name on it, while the brand gets to bask in the celebrity’s glow. Retailers who are chosen to sell them get an aura of coolness as well. All hope to get mentions in the fashion and sneakerhead press.
The celebrity’s design involvement is very limited. First of all few celebrities have real design talent and none have any shoe building skills. The brands will ask the celebrity about preferences and desires (“Teal is my favorite color”; “I love unicorns”) and these personalized elements are incorporated into an existing shoe design.
These shoes are not sold in commercial quantities. The pairs available are typically less than 5000. (By contrast, according to my analysis of the data from www.sportsonesource.com, Americans bought more than 300 million pairs of shoes last year). All the collaborations added together would barely move the sales needle for the industry.
Because these shoes are limited in availability, they are often in high demand and can claim high multiples in re-sale price on the Internet. Because these limited shoes are in high demand, there is often a mistaken assumption that they could or would sell well in commercial quantities.
Recent history would argue against that. A decade ago, Reebok tried to commercialize their relationships with artists Jay-Z and 50 Cent, two very important artists of the time. I was in the Villa store on N. Broad in Philly for the first S. Carter drop (Shawn Carter is Jay-Z’s real name). The shoes sold out very quickly. The atmosphere was electric.
Reebok decided to try to build on that small success, by making many more pairs and opening up to a much broader distribution. The next, slightly larger, delivery did very well, so Reebok ramped up production even more. At the same time they made the G-Unit shoe for 50 Cent, again trying to commercialize the relationship.
Both mass market efforts failed miserably. There simply was not enough of a market for the amount of pairs manufactured. Markdowns were taken, orders cancelled and the bulk of the shoes were liquidated through off price retailers. No further shoes were released and the relationships ended.
Similarly the Pharrell Williams/ Reebok “Ice Cream” collaboration went down in flames. The Pharrell/Palladium deal never got off the ground. I cannot recall a single celebrity collaboration has been commercially meaningful at scale.
The lesson here is that limited means limited. Just because a shoe blows out at retail on a small number of pairs does not guarantee broad commercial success, regardless of how popular the artist may be and how commercially successful they are. High resale value is not an indicator of broad commercial success.
Adidas has signed endorsement contracts with Kanye West and Pharrell Williams, both highly regarded music artists and cultural icons, just as Jay-Z and 50 Cent were.
Brands that are paying artists for their endorsement concerns me for two reasons: First, fans and sneakerheads now know that these artists are getting paid, reducing the specialness that comes from collaborations and two, the brands will now be pressured to monetize these relationships by selling a lot of shoes.
Brands who try to commercialize limited edition products do so at their own peril. If history repeats itself the Adidas/West and Williams collaborations will not be commercially successful.
http://www.forbes.com/sites/mattpowell/2014/05/01/sneakernomics-will-kanye-west-help-adidas-sales/[