Look up any web article on “
the history of barbecue” and you’re likely to get statements to the effect that the word “barbecue” comes to us from the Caribbean by way of Spanish Conquistadors who learned of slow-cooking over a fire using a wooden frame from the Taino-Arawak people. The Spanish adopted the Haitian word barbacoa meaning “sacred fire pit” to describe this process and have used it since at least 1526, when it first appeared in a
Spanish dictionary. Many attribute the origin of the modern word “barbecue” to the word barbacoa. It is equally likely that the word “barbecue” stems from the Taino-Arawak word “barbicu.” The Taino people inhabit what is today Hispaniola, the island home of Haiti and the Dominican Republic. What you won’t read quite as often is that the meats of choice were goat, deer, alligator, and
possibly human. Sacred fire pit, indeed.
But the word “barbecue” has other roots, as well. The West African Hausa people used the word “babbake” to refer to a variety of processes involving cooking and fire. This explanation has a lot going for it. Particularly, the fact that a single word with myriad meanings came to define a past-time that is as fraught with ambiguity today as its origins in the distant past.
The fact is, salting, spicing and slow roasting meat is a nearly universal process, and one valuable worldwide not just to those in search of perfect flavor, but to those looking for ways to preserve meat in unforgiving climates. But what about American barbecue? Is it possible something so closely identified with our national culture is shared by every culture on earth?
Yes and no. Slow cooking over a controlled fire belongs exclusively to no one. However, what we call barbecue in the United States is ours, albeit by way of the
West Africans, Jamaicans, and Haitians brought to our shores against their will. The story of American barbecue has its roots, like all things American, in many cultures, yet it was one of the most marginalized and mistreated that gave us the gift that so many love.
Barbecue in the United States, as almost anyone will tell you, is peculiarly Southern. And in the South, pork was the meat of choice. This stems back to the earliest continental colonies, specifically a
failed Spanish colony founded in 1526 in what would become South Carolina. When their leader died and the colony foundered, the pigs they’d brought with them from the Old World ended
up in the wild. The slaves of the Spaniards were taken in by the local Native American tribes, and together they hunted and barbecued the feral pigs (which still haunt the Southern forests).
This early American barbecue was cooked in pits dug by hand and covered with green wood. It was slow cooking extraordinaire, and very labor intensive. As time went on, slow cooking meat was adopted more and more by poor rural populations, and came to be the staple of festivals and celebrations. Black slaves in particular perfected the practice, and took it with them wherever they went. Eventually, their manner of eating—usually
without utensils—was accepted by the European settlers who also grew to appreciate the flavor and consistency of slow roasted meat.