JH: What are some of those fabrics?
RF: One of them is called Weapon.19 That’s what we ended up making our suits in. Even making clothes in luxury is different. All the techniques are, like,
ridiculous.
19. A cotton canvas fabric. Other textiles in the collection include denim and leather.
JH: I mean, all of the boning on your dresses is —
RF: I love a corset. We put a corset in a suit, a dress, a shirt, a denim jacket and a T-shirt dress.
JH: It’s so femme. But you’re using traditionally masculine shapes (the suit, the chore coat) to tell a complex narrative about the Fenty person. What is the Fenty person’s relationship to masculinity and femininity?
RF: I use myself as the muse. It’s sweatpants with pearls, or a masculine denim jacket with a corset. I feel like we live in a world where people are embracing every bit of who they are. Look at Jaden Smith,20 Childish Gambino.21 They dare you to tell them not to.
20. The 20-year-old son of actors Will Smith and Jada Pinkett Smith is known for flamboyant looks comprising skirts, chunky gold jewelry and mismatched patterns.
21. Childish Gambino is the often shirtless musical alter ego of the actor Donald Glover, which he introduced in 2008 with his “Sick Boi” mixtape. In 2019, Rihanna starred opposite Glover in his Childish Gambino musical film, “
Guava Island.”
JH: To me, part of being Rihanna is twerking on a yacht and walking out of a bar with a wine glass. You’re like a modern Dionysus, a goddess of the party, the turn-up. Does that feel true to you now as Fenty’s muse?
RF: There has been quite an evolution in
that party. In the beginning, it was just my culture, my life. And now, the party, believe it or not, is at work. I do not go out. I will go to a dinner. I try to have as much fun as I can during work. And even after work, when I’m literally in my kitchen having a drink, I invite all my staff. And we work,
still.
JH: Do you think that that ability to party with your staff comes from the fact your associates and staff, known as #TheCorp,22 are like family?
22. Along with Weaver, #TheCorp includes
Melissa Forde, Jennifer Rosales, Jay Brown, Kristina Fields and a rotating cast of others.
RF: I see them more than my family and spend most of my life with them. It becomes friendship first, and then it leads into family because we lean on each other. I’m sure it’s really different from any other boss-employee relationship.
JH: Using your family name as the anchor of this company
and Fenty Beauty seems to recall the idea of a family business. What was behind that choice?
RF: I used to be afraid to step into the whole celebrity makeup world. I saw brands like Hilary Duff and Hannah Montana23 have so much success [in the aughts], but it got to a place where they were so oversaturated in the market that it diluted their personal brands. It made me think, “I’m not going to do this, because you lose your respect and credibility,” and so every collaboration I did outside of music, I used Fenty so that you didn’t have to hear the word “Rihanna” every time you saw something that I did. So Rihanna stayed the music, the person. But these other brands are called Fenty.
23. Hannah Montana was the musician Miley Cyrus’s alter ego on a Disney Channel series of the same name, which ran for four seasons from 2006 to 2011 and spawned a concert film and a musical film adaptation.
‘YOU’RE GOING TO BE BLACK WHEREVER YOU GO.AND I DON’T KNOW IF IT’S UNFORTUNATEOR FORTUNATE, BECAUSE I LOVE BEING BLACK.’
Suit jacket in cotton canvas with fanny pack, $1,100. Pleated suit trousers in cotton canvas, $485. Leather shoes, $625.Photo by Kristin-Lee Moolman. Styled by Suzanne Koller
JH: Do you know where your last name comes from? I looked it up.
RF: Really? You’re about to teach me something about myself. Is it Irish?
JH: No, it’s Spanish and Portuguese. It derives from the word “infante,” a title for the children of royals.
RF: Get out of here!
JH: It’s a medieval name.
RF: That is tripping me out.
JH: Does it trip you out that Fenty gets to open so many doors? How are you looking to make room at that table of luxury design for other black, brown and female designers?
RF: I like to think of my establishment at the Fenty house as a hub. So I am always looking at grad collections, who’s about to leave college, who wants a year here. And we’ve done that with a couple young designers and a couple new ones that are coming in. Even if you’ve never designed something in your life, you might have impeccable taste: I’m welcoming everyone’s vision here, because that’s what it’s gonna take. I can’t just think I know everything. I’m very smart with my control freak — a smart control freak. I welcome other people’s expertise. I love new, young talent.
JH: Who was really generous with their knowledge with you?
RF: Jay Brown, my manager who started off as my A&R.24 He’s been a father figure in my life.25
24. Short for Artists and Repertoire, a music executive who develops rising stars.
25. Jay Brown, C.E.O. of Roc Nation since 2008, also manages the careers of Mariah Carey and Shakira. He and Jay-Z signed Rihanna in 2005, when she was 16.
JH: Jahleel said that when you hired him you gave him “his freedom papers.” He’s free to walk through the LVMH headquarters in Paris and be who he wants to be. Where does that freedom come from? From being affiliated with you?
RF: No, because even within being Rihanna, that freedom didn’t exist for a while. “
Good Girl Gone Bad”26 is where I started to take the reins: “I’m going to do whatever I want to do, I’m taking control of my vision, my sound, my clothes.” I also embraced change along the way — things that make me a better woman, a better human being. Like, even the way I communicate: I’m really proud of my growth on that. I’m proud to walk into any building as this person. Nothing about me makes me embarrassed about me.
26. “
Good Girl Gone Bad,” Rihanna’s third studio album, was released in 2007 and included “
Umbrella.” The LP sold more than 9 million copies worldwide and solidified her stardom.
JH: You did
an interview in 2012 where you said you used to change your voice in business meetings. Was that one of the pressures you felt in that era, to be a certain type of Bajan woman in American society?
RF: No, that was the pressure I felt from the jump, with “
Music of the Sun.”27 I’m walking into a new world, new industry, with people who have been doing this
forever. I’m literally from a rock in the ocean.
27. Released in August 2005, “
Music of the Sun” was Rihanna’s debut album and featured her introductory single, “
Pon de Replay,” which peaked at No. 2 on the Billboard Hot 100.
JH: You were 15!28
28. Rihanna was discovered in December 2003 by the American producer Evan Rogers while he was vacationing in Barbados. Rihanna auditioned for Rogers, and he soon invited her to live with him and his family in Connecticut while kicking off her career.
RF: Right. You know nothing then. So you just take these people’s advice, and you realize,
This is not who I am. It was the pressure of feeling safe in a box. I never liked that feeling, and so I grew out of that box when I couldn’t take it anymore, and I just went for it.
JH: Is “Good Girl Gone Bad” your favorite album?
RF: No, because that was a transition. I don’t know what my favorite album is — I’m sure if I put all my favorite songs together, it would be a really sick album. Maybe I should do that one day.
JH: You should troll your fans by doing that. Be like, “New album, y’all!”
RF: They would hate me. They would take me down.
JH: I’m not in the Navy,29 but I am Navy adjacent. So I have to ask some questions I saw floating around the message boards.
29. The name of Rihanna’s fan base, the Navy, has disputed origins, but many believe it began after she appeared in Peter Berg’s film “Battleship” in 2012. What is clear is the fans’ militaristic fervor in promoting and discussing all things Rihanna.
RF: O.K. [
Laughs.]
JH: Is it true you are doing a reggae album?
RF: Yeah.
JH: You are? O.K., are you collaborating with Lady Gaga?
RF: No.
JH: Oh, they think you’re doing a collaboration with Lady Gaga.
RF: Maybe because she followed me on Instagram. It’s not in the books right now, but I’m not against it.
JH: Are you going to collaborate with Drake again?30
30. Rihanna’s close relationship with Drake is reportedly linked to a past romance between them that she has never confirmed. It has resulted in some of the best songs in both of their repertoires, from 2010’s “
What’s My Name?” to 2011’s “
Take Care” to the aforementioned “
Work.”
RF: Not anytime soon, I don’t see it happening. Not on this album, that’s for sure.
JH: What is the album called?
RF: Uh, I don’t know yet.
JH: If you don’t know yet, then you probably don’t know when it’s coming out?
RF: I don’t.
JH: Do you have any names under consideration?
RF: No, so far it’s just been R9,31 thanks to the Navy. I’m about to call it that probably, ’cause they have haunted me with this “R9, R9, when is R9 coming out?” How will I accept another name after that’s been burned into my skull?
31. Her forthcoming album will, yes, be her ninth.
JH: It’s this gift to the fans who have been most hungry for it.
RF: That would be cute.
Rihanna models her new Fenty line on T’s digital cover.
JH: You are one of our only immigrant pop stars in America,
21 Savage32being another. Did coming from an island that’s 90 percent black make it feel natural to have 40 distinct shades in the first run of Fenty Beauty?
32. In February, the British rapper 21 Savage’s
arrest by Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) while living in Atlanta on charges of overstaying his visa activated a community of hip-hop fans around immigration issues in the United States.
RF: In my own household, my father is half black, half white. My mom is black from South America. I was seeing diversity. That’s all I knew. Growing up, I wanted to be darker, always. So, making makeup, it wasn’t even a thing I had to think about. I didn’t even really know how bad it was, the void in the market for dark foundation, because all I’d seen was black women put makeup on. I don’t even think 40 shades is enough! And so I added 10 more recently, and we’re not gonna stop there.
JH: A few years ago, you started going on a “thicc” journey.33 How did that change how you looked at inclusivity with regard to your fashion line?
33. In 2018, Rihanna began engaging with fans and press about her changing body. In an August 2018 interview
in British Vogue, she said, in regard to women increasingly identifying with her, “I don’t know, maybe it’s because I’m ‘thicc’ now.”
RF: It just changed how I dress in terms of my proportions. You wear what looks good on you and that’s it. I’m thick and curvy right now, and so if I can’t wear my own stuff then, I mean, that’s not gonna work, right? And my size is not the biggest size. It’s actually closer to the smallest size we have: We go up to a [French size] 46.34 We’re saying we can meet you at any one drop that we put out.
34. The equivalent of an American size 14.
JH: Let’s talk about those monthly drops, which is one of the innovative aspects of this: Fenty will be releasing several new items — from basics to special pieces — exclusively on its
website. How did you come up with the distribution model?
RF: Because I’m a millennial, you know? People are always looking for the thing that hasn’t made it online yet. And as a consumer, I hate seeing something on the runway and then having to wait six months for it. I had to wait all that time to get it, do I even…
JH: Love it anymore?
RF: Yeah! So with this, you see it, you love it, you can have it. I want to be as disruptive as possible. The brand is not traditional. There is no runway show. It’s a new way of doing things because I believe that this is where fashion is going to go eventually.
JH: Was there any white knuckling in the LVMH offices when you presented this distribution model? Tradition is a major pillar of that company.
RF: Believe it or not, it’s the thing that actually excited Mr. Arnault. He hasn’t started a brand from scratch for a while. It’s his baby as well. He is so hands-on, which validates how I handle things.
JH: Jahleel said Fenty is being released like a bunch of singles that add up to an album.
RF: That’s a cute analogy.
JH: What do you think is the vibe of the first single?
RF: The first single is really strong and edgy, compared to the drop right after, which is a little more feminine. But the first one, there are a lot of classic pieces as well.