Some points I take issue with...
"For most tasks, I find the iPhone 6 Plus to be a two-handed device – but I also find that I’m absolutely fine with that." - So, I guess he's evolved from saying 'phablets' are "... big screen gadgets best-suited for big-handed people" (see:
http://techcrunch.com/
2013/09/04/samsungn-reveals-the-galaxy-note-3-the-slimmer-and-lighter-evolution-of-the-phablet/) or that "...there are some arguments in favor of the gargantuan device, but they melt away when you try to wrangle one in a human-sized hand" (see:
http://techcrunch.com/2013/12/24/fly-or-die-nokia-lumia-1520/) to saying that, as long as it's Apple, he's fine with it being a two-handed device.
"...when used on my home network, which is run from a current-generation Airport Extreme..." - Never trust a reviewer to be impartial to an ecosystem when they are one of those folks who rush out and buy the newest router because Apple. Ummm, it's a router...
"And the optical stabilization, in addition to the software-based stabilization Apple already uses in its iPhone camera, results in a photo-taking experience like no other." - You know, except for all those Nokia Lumias that have had optical image stabilization (OIS) for years. See:
http://techcrunch.com/2012/09/05/nokia-lumia-920-official/
And the kicker...
"Apple has managed to make the very first well-designed smartphone of epic scale, regardless of your thoughts on the merit of the category as a whole." - Seriously? Wow. Just wow.