The most underrated African textiles...

EdJo

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It is funny that a lot of black people, around the world, bought into the idea that Africans didn't have any textiles prior to European contact, when in reality, we were also providing textiles to the world as a trade. Kongo and Kuba textiles are very similar, they are made with raffia. It is said, that the first Kuba leader, used to be part of the Kongo Kingdom, who had a disagreement with the Kongo King and decided to create his own state with people from different tribes. But evidence shows that raffia had been used in Africa, since the 7th-8th century.

Duarte Pacheco Pereira, portuguese explorer, (ca. 1460–1533) said this about the Kongo Textiles

“In this Kingdom of Kongo, they make fabrics with a nap like velvet, some of them worked in velvety satin, so beautiful that nothing finer is made in Italy”


Roman Emperors, European Kings, Navigators, Scientists and Explorers used the Kongo Textiles

"From Stockholm to Florence, London to Prague, Kongo luxury cloths were preserved in court and cabinet collections formed by rulers, princes, and urban elites. The first two recorded examples appear in Prague in 1607—in the Kunstkammer of the Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II of Prague (r. 1576–1612), where they remain today—but the royal houses of Sweden and Denmark swiftly followed."

"Kongo cloths are also recorded in the seventeenth century as prize pieces acquired by doctors, scientists, and scholars. The Milanese physician Ludovico Settala (1552–1633) and his son Manfredo (1600–1680) formed one of Italy's most famous scientific museums, which included several examples. There is a drawing of a folded one, annotated as "a small mat to make a cushion to sit on, made of straw of rare beauty…made in Angola or Congo." Settala's scholarly network included the Jesuit scholar Athanasius Kircher (1602–1680), founding director of the the Musaeum Kircherianum in Rome, who acquired pieces described in 1709 as "four mats made with admirable skill in the Kingdom of Angola….they look like a silk cloth notwithstanding they are made of very thin palm threads."

"Sir Hans Sloane (1660–1753), physician and second president of the Royal Society—whose collection was to become the foundation of the British Museum in 1753—owned two pieces that are listed in his manuscript inventory and which still survive in a battered state. An oblong cushion in much better condition, also in the British Museum, was only acquired much later and illustrates the rise of ethnography as a discipline in the nineteenth century, which led to the fragmentation of Kunstkammern all over Europe. It was first inventoried in the Royal Danish Kunstkammer in 1674 but was deaccessioned by the Nationalmuseet in Copenhagen and acquired by the Quaker and abolitionist Henry Christy (1810–1865), who gifted it to the British Museum."




Works From African Kongo Art at the Metropolitan Museum

"Made of Straw of Rare Beauty": Kongo Textiles in Renaissance European Collections
 
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EdJo

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Kongo Textile

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Kinzembe - Kongo Textile

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Apollo Creed

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Yeah I’ve always heard that the modern textile used was introduced by the Dutch, never took the time to look at the history.
 

Jimmy from Linkedin

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My recent favorite has been the aso olona from the Oshugbo.

The Meaning of Yoruba Aso Olona is Far From Water Tight
While researching the ritual meaning of cloth among the Eastern Ijo of the Niger Delta, I examined the contents of a number of family owned trunks in which were stored old and much valued cloths traded from elsewhere in Africa, Europe, and India....The Ijebu refer to it generically as aso olona meaning "cloth with patterns, a name derived from its characteristically rich array of weft-float designs. Bearing images of water spirits and other power-laden symbols, the cloth serves as emblems of chieftaincy, priesthood and membership in the ever-powerful Oshugbo society. Thus, it lies at the very core ofIjebu power and leadership as it eventually came to be, albeit on a lesser scale, among the Eastern IjO


A lot of the indigo work that the women in Yorubaland do, the adire designs are absolutely ridiculous just



I really need to go back home man!
 

Jimmy from Linkedin

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Yeah I’ve always heard that the modern textile used was introduced by the Dutch, never took the time to look at the history.

Vlisco - Wikipedia

This brand really runs shyt in the wax print game, they have been running it for a mean one. Up and coming designers in Africa run to the opportunity to have them craft their designs. Basically what happened is they saw the batik styles in indonesia, industrialized it and tried to sell it back to the indonesians, they rejected it and brought it to West Africa and it exploded. Whats worse is that the chinese are in it now and copy the patterns whether they are from local companies, vlisco, or larger african ones and undercut everyone with shyttier cloth. There are plenty of wax print brands ran by us though, Printex (Ghana), DaViva (Nigeria), McChiles (Zambia), Uniwax (Ivory Coast) to name a few. They all can be distinguished by their logos and stuff once you get your hands on some. You can definitely feel the difference, especially between some fabric made in holland vs some in china.
 

Samori Toure

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How come nobody bothered to mention cotton in the Kingdom of Mali? It was a major crop introduced by Sundiata Keita in around 1230. Cotton weaving was also introduced in Mali at that time, but cotton production may have been happening by the Soninke people (another Mande people) in the Kingdom of Ghana as far back as the 8th or 9th century.

The elephant in the room in the room is that the English and later the Americans sought the people of Senegambia and Mali as slaves, because those people had knowledge of livestock, blacksmithing, rice cultivation and cotton production. Of course cotton became one of the most lucrative crops produced by slaves in the USA.

Slavery - South Carolina Encyclopedia
Textiles in Mali - Art & Life in Africa - The University of Iowa Museum of Art
The History of Weaving Part 2- Africa - Wild Tussah

335-97-3936-ROH001.jpg



Note that Mansa Musa and the other Mande people of Mali are always depicted wearing cotton clothing.

rich18n-1-web.jpg


mansa-munsa.jpg


the-three-kingdoms-of-west-africa-9-638.jpg


During the Mane (Mande) invasion into Sierra Leone and Liberia (from Mali, Ivory Coast, Guinea and Guinea Bissau),the Portuguese were able to tell the difference between the Mande who they knew to be invaders from the other tribes that were being invaded; because the Mande people wore cotton clothing. Whereas the people that the Portuguese met along the coastlines that were being invaded wore animal skins and tree bark.

http://www.webmande.net/bibliotheque/massing/mane_mali_decline_mandinka_expansion.pdf
Mane invasions (16th century)

Cotton growing and weaving is still a major enterprise in Mali, Burkina Faso, Sierra Leone, Guinea etc., to this very day.

cotton-in-mali-621x350.jpg


du-coton-bio-africain-pour-habiller-le-monde.jpg


59edbafc05f8acabb57505f913f129b5.jpg


581d9b70c098bbf7e2733b5aed00f81b.jpg


9277522e7e2c0cf92bdd6ab11f4c2746--guinea-africa-national-museum.jpg
 

EdJo

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How come nobody bothered to mention cotton in the Kingdom of Mali? It was a major crop introduced by Sundiata Keita in around 1230. Cotton weaving was also introduced in Mali at that time, but cotton production may have been happening by the Soninke people (another Mande people) in the Kingdom of Ghana as far back as the 8th or 9th century.

The elephant in the room in the room is that the English and later the Americans sought the people of Senegambia and Mali as slaves, because those people had knowledge of livestock, blacksmithing, rice cultivation and cotton production. Of course cotton became one of the most lucrative crops produced by slaves in the USA.

Slavery - South Carolina Encyclopedia
Textiles in Mali - Art & Life in Africa - The University of Iowa Museum of Art
The History of Weaving Part 2- Africa - Wild Tussah

335-97-3936-ROH001.jpg



Note that Mansa Musa and the other Mande people of Mali are always depicted wearing cotton clothing.

rich18n-1-web.jpg


mansa-munsa.jpg


the-three-kingdoms-of-west-africa-9-638.jpg


During the Mane (Mande) invasion into Sierra Leone and Liberia (from Mali, Ivory Coast, Guinea and Guinea Bissau),the Portuguese were able to tell the difference between the Mande who they knew to be invaders from the other tribes that were being invaded; because the Mande people wore cotton clothing. Whereas the people that the Portuguese met along the coastlines that were being invaded wore animal skins and tree bark.

http://www.webmande.net/bibliotheque/massing/mane_mali_decline_mandinka_expansion.pdf
Mane invasions (16th century)

Cotton growing and weaving is still a major enterprise in Mali, Burkina Faso, Sierra Leone, Guinea etc., to this very day.

cotton-in-mali-621x350.jpg


du-coton-bio-africain-pour-habiller-le-monde.jpg


59edbafc05f8acabb57505f913f129b5.jpg


581d9b70c098bbf7e2733b5aed00f81b.jpg


9277522e7e2c0cf92bdd6ab11f4c2746--guinea-africa-national-museum.jpg


Very good. Didn't know about cotton being used in ancient Ghana. I only knew about silk in Mali. But i know that textiles have been found in West Africa, in Kissi (Burkina Faso), and they date from 1st century BC.

The oldest textiles from sub-Saharan West Africa: woolen facts from Kissi, Burkina Faso
 
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