Denim is a daily staple in both America’s history and its ideology, too. From dusty gold miners in the late 1800s to the cowboys of the 1930s who made the popularity of jeans leap from workwear into the wardrobes of Hollywood stars like James Dean. The jean stands for something larger about the American spirit: rugged individualism, informality and a democratic respect for hard work. But while class and gender differences have been acknowledged and largely written about since blue jeans were first invented 147 years ago, the narrative has been mostly whitewashed, especially when it comes to discussions around race and Black America’s part in the history of denim.
A quick google of ‘denim history’ will pull up search results like
Vogue encyclopaedia: The history of denim jeans which counts miners, cowboys, Hollywood legends, counterculture rebels, rock stars and high fashion alike over the last two centuries. Throughout the list, and like many more online, are familiar names like John Wayne, Marlon Brando, Bing Crosby and Marilyn Monroe. But while history likes to recount these figures in denim’s all-American tale, it’s not often that you hear about the freedom fighters who, in large part, helped bring the look to the mainstream.
Whitney R. McGuire, an attorney for Creative Entrepreneurs and Co-Founder of
Sustainable Brooklyn, backed up this sentiment in a
talk during the 2018 Denim Days edition in NYC by saying that denim is more than “cotton, indigo, and rivets.” “Denim is a symbol of American idealism,” she said, and yet the contributions of people of color to its development often go unrecognised. “The descendants of enslaved Africans have created this beautiful fabric of culture and experience for the entire world to partake in.”
It’s impossible to ignore the influence pop-culture “rebels” like Elvis and James Dean had on the youthquake consciousness and their perception of denim. But its also obvious that the more complex, less whitewashed story of the revolutionaries on the front pages of newspapers truly helped denim become a staple in everyday people’s wardrobes. “It took Martin Luther King’s march on Washington to make them popular,” wrote Caroline A. Jones, author of Machine in the Studio: Constructing the Postwar American Artist. “It was here that civil rights activists were photographed wearing the poor sharecropper’s blue denim overalls to dramatize how little had been accomplished since Reconstruction.”
How Denim Became the Symbol of the Civil Rights Movement – Denim Dudes