PlayStation 4 (PS4) Blue Light of death (BLOD) Turn on and quick shut off "Permanent Fix"

[Liquid]

First of all, there is no such thing as a "permanent fix" as the console cycle goes along. In addition to the APU problems, your hard drive can die, your HDMI port can go out, your PSU can pop, among other things. I will break down what is happening with the PS4 as I have been answering a lot of questions about the blue light of death or possible Power Supply replacement.

The BLOD this generation is mostly caused by a problem with the APU in the system. This could be a combination of things that cause this problem, it is either:

The lead-free solder balls need to be replaced with lead based solder balls to allow for more flexibility. What causes this problem? It's basically because the console is running hot on the inside and a combination of the lead-free joints becoming brittle and what I am assuming cheap thermal compound put on the APU itself. Your system will need to be heated and then reballed in this case, but even then it is most likely just a temporary solution. I would also recommend applying Arctic MX-4 thermal compound if you are doing the repair yourself. If you are NOT comfortable with doing the repair yourself, I will do it for you at a discount. Arctic MX-4 being applied properly after heating up your chip is probably the best thing you can do to extend the life if your PS4.

The PSU could be bad, but I doubt it. If your PS4 is turning on and then shutting right back off it is still most likely the APU needing to be reballed and new thermal compound applied. It COULD be the APU, but this is usually only the case when the console doesn't turn on at all. The PSU swap is an easy fix and a replacement can be bought on eBay for about $50. If you feel like you might have a PSU problem I can install it for you cheap if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

The HDMI issue can just be a cheap part by Sony and will require replacing it along with a new HDMI cord.

Blu-Ray drive can be dust or simply usage over time if you play many games on disc. Replacement drive goes for about $60 + service charge.

PC builders will know that heat is the enemy of a console, that's why the PS4 is having these problems with the combination of cheap thermal compound and lead free solder points on the chip + mobo in such a small and tight package. I personally think having the PSU internally on the PS4 was a bad move when all these other cost cuts or decisions were made. I would assume that Sony might include a power brick in later generations if this BLOD issue continues or possibly working with AMD to reduce the heat inside (good luck with that) and going with lead reballing. I fixed many early xbox 360's RROD issues and the PS4 is a better built console overall due to how much heat the 360 was generating inside. The XBOX One appears to be the better built console this generation.

Either way, there is your answer. I am assuming many people will start finding this thread on google.

TLDR version is simple in a few bullet points:

1. If you are getting the BLOD, your console will most likely need to be reheated and possibly reballed.
2. Your PSU is probably still good, but a replacement is cheap if needed.
3. There is no "permanent fix", just the best fix you can buy. Reflowing and reballing are usually short term fixes.
4. The ONLY "permanent fix" is a full motherboard + APU replacement. At this time you will have to buy a new PS4 from Sony for this.

 

[satam55]

First of all, there is no such thing as a "permanent fix" as the console cycle goes along. In addition to the APU problems, your hard drive can die, your HDMI port can go out, your PSU can pop, among other things. I will break down what is happening with the PS4 as I have been answering a lot of questions about the blue light of death or possible Power Supply replacement.

The BLOD this generation is mostly caused by a problem with the APU in the system. This could be a combination of things that cause this problem, it is either:

The lead-free solder balls need to be replaced with lead based solder balls to allow for more flexibility. What causes this problem? It's basically because the console is running hot on the inside and a combination of the lead-free joints becoming brittle and what I am assuming cheap thermal compound put on the APU itself. Your system will need to be heated and then reballed in this case, but even then it is most likely just a temporary solution. I would also recommend applying Arctic MX-4 thermal compound if you are doing the repair yourself. If you are NOT comfortable with doing the repair yourself, I will do it for you at a discount. Arctic MX-4 being applied properly after heating up your chip is probably the best thing you can do to extend the life if your PS4.

The PSU could be bad, but I doubt it. If your PS4 is turning on and then shutting right back off it is still most likely the APU needing to be reballed and new thermal compound applied. It COULD be the APU, but this is usually only the case when the console doesn't turn on at all. The PSU swap is an easy fix and a replacement can be bought on eBay for about $50. If you feel like you might have a PSU problem I can install it for you cheap if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

The HDMI issue can just be a cheap part by Sony and will require replacing it along with a new HDMI cord.

Blu-Ray drive can be dust or simply usage over time if you play many games on disc. Replacement drive goes for about $60 + service charge.

PC builders will know that heat is the enemy of a console, that's why the PS4 is having these problems with the combination of cheap thermal compound and lead free solder points on the chip + mobo in such a small and tight package. I personally think having the PSU internally on the PS4 was a bad move when all these other cost cuts or decisions were made. I would assume that Sony might include a power brick in later generations if this BLOD issue continues or possibly working with AMD to reduce the heat inside (good luck with that) and going with lead reballing. I fixed many early xbox 360's RROD issues and the PS4 is a better built console overall due to how much heat the 360 was generating inside. The XBOX One appears to be the better built console this generation.

Either way, there is your answer. I am assuming many people will start finding this thread on google.

TLDR version is simple in a few bullet points:

1. If you are getting the BLOD, your console will most likely need to be reheated and possibly reballed.
2. Your PSU is probably still good, but a replacement is cheap if needed.
3. There is no "permanent fix", just the best fix you can buy. Reflowing and reballing are usually short term fixes.
4. The ONLY "permanent fix" is a full motherboard + APU replacement. At this time you will have to buy a new PS4 from Sony for this.

The using of lead-free solder balls instead of led-based solder balls was a big issue Last Gen.

 

[Liquid]

The using of lead-free solder balls instead of led-based solder balls was a big issue Last Gen.

I think they are forced to go that route in certain countries.

 

[Marci-Senpai]

First of all, there is no such thing as a "permanent fix" as the console cycle goes along. In addition to the APU problems, your hard drive can die, your HDMI port can go out, your PSU can pop, among other things. I will break down what is happening with the PS4 as I have been answering a lot of questions about the blue light of death or possible Power Supply replacement.

The BLOD this generation is mostly caused by a problem with the APU in the system. This could be a combination of things that cause this problem, it is either:

The lead-free solder balls need to be replaced with lead based solder balls to allow for more flexibility. What causes this problem? It's basically because the console is running hot on the inside and a combination of the lead-free joints becoming brittle and what I am assuming cheap thermal compound put on the APU itself. Your system will need to be heated and then reballed in this case, but even then it is most likely just a temporary solution. I would also recommend applying Arctic MX-4 thermal compound if you are doing the repair yourself. If you are NOT comfortable with doing the repair yourself, I will do it for you at a discount. Arctic MX-4 being applied properly after heating up your chip is probably the best thing you can do to extend the life if your PS4.

The PSU could be bad, but I doubt it. If your PS4 is turning on and then shutting right back off it is still most likely the APU needing to be reballed and new thermal compound applied. It COULD be the APU, but this is usually only the case when the console doesn't turn on at all. The PSU swap is an easy fix and a replacement can be bought on eBay for about $50. If you feel like you might have a PSU problem I can install it for you cheap if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

The HDMI issue can just be a cheap part by Sony and will require replacing it along with a new HDMI cord.

Blu-Ray drive can be dust or simply usage over time if you play many games on disc. Replacement drive goes for about $60 + service charge.

PC builders will know that heat is the enemy of a console, that's why the PS4 is having these problems with the combination of cheap thermal compound and lead free solder points on the chip + mobo in such a small and tight package. I personally think having the PSU internally on the PS4 was a bad move when all these other cost cuts or decisions were made. I would assume that Sony might include a power brick in later generations if this BLOD issue continues or possibly working with AMD to reduce the heat inside (good luck with that) and going with lead reballing. I fixed many early xbox 360's RROD issues and the PS4 is a better built console overall due to how much heat the 360 was generating inside. The XBOX One appears to be the better built console this generation.

Either way, there is your answer. I am assuming many people will start finding this thread on google.

TLDR version is simple in a few bullet points:

1. If you are getting the BLOD, your console will most likely need to be reheated and possibly reballed.
2. Your PSU is probably still good, but a replacement is cheap if needed.
3. There is no "permanent fix", just the best fix you can buy. Reflowing and reballing are usually short term fixes.
4. The ONLY "permanent fix" is a full motherboard + APU replacement. At this time you will have to buy a new PS4 from Sony for this.

Een nobody got time to read all this shyt nikka post some cliffnotes or something

 

[Liquid]

Een nobody got time to read all this shyt nikka post some cliffnotes or something

The TLDR is posted at the end for you "I only read the synopsis and check the score" types

 

[Hyperion]

The using of lead-free solder balls instead of led-based solder balls was a big issue Last Gen.

You'd think they would've learned their lesson.

 

[PS5 Pro]

You'd think they would've learned their lesson.

Um, sony fans aka battered housewives stay making excuses bruh

 

[Liquid]

Um, sony fans aka battered housewives stay making excuses bruh

You have NO shame do you?

 

[DrunkenNovice]

My shyt just died

 

[Liquid]

My shyt just died

What is it doing? There are two types of BLOD.

 

[MeachTheMonster]

I think they are forced to go that route in certain countries.

If your gonna ship internationally its pretty much standard now. The U.S is one of the last countries that doesn't require it.

 

[DrunkenNovice]

What is it doing? There are two types of BLOD.

Turn on then immediately shut off.

I read your post, but some of the stuff online is blaming the psu. Its still within warranty but im finding mixed reports on if sony will cover as well.

 

[Liquid]

Turn on then immediately shut off.

I read your post, but some of the stuff online is blaming the psu. Its still within warranty but im finding mixed reports on if sony will cover as well.

Sony has to fix it if you never opened it and have the receipt if you purchased it less than a year ago.

 

[Chris Cool]

Turn on then immediately shut off.

I read your post, but some of the stuff online is blaming the psu. Its still within warranty but im finding mixed reports on if sony will cover as well.

i had the problem late last year. i booted into safe mode and did a database rebuild and shyt started working again. you should try that if you haven't already, you'll lose everything though.

 

[DrunkenNovice]

i had the problem late last year. i booted into safe mode and did a database rebuild and shyt started working again. you should try that if you haven't already, you'll lose everything though.

Howd hou do that? Mine literally turns on and off in a second